There must be at least one
metric fuckton of internet advice for cheap travel and how to do the
whole Eurothang on a tight budget. They all talk about cheap hotels,
cheap flights, etc. But then they neglect the obvious. What if you
move to another country and stay there? What the hell do you do when
you run out of money and get that nervous twitch that screams GIMME
BOOZE?
I'm not an alcoholic, but
I played one on TV. As your Wide Body Russian general, I command you to drink vodka if
you happen to be stuck in Russia. You'll need it. That Putin is a
scary fuck. Especially when he's shirtless on horseback. But if you
happen to be stuck in Prague, as many of us are, take my advice:
drink the local spirit. Find out what it is, drink it, live it and
love it.
The Beer Spirit
But Big Sir, ain't beer
the Czech local spirit? No. Beer is not a spirit, Junior, but it
most definitely is the most popular beverage in Czechia, the one
which earns them the dubious honor of being the country with the most
per capita beer consumption in the world. Per capita is pig latin for
dividing the total beer sales with the total population, every man,
woman, child and baby, to get a number that sounds very impressive.
It's lazy math. Most of the babies here don't drink beer, and if they
do, they can't handle it at all. And nobody is willing to go door to
door to survey the beer consumption of the common peeps.
Proof that per capita
stats are bullshit: Germany held the title of being the biggest beer
drinkers in the world for at least an eon. It's true. Some of them
are HUGE. That's why they invented bucket pants. But the Artist
Formerly Known As Czechoslovakia had a velvet divorce, the husband
kept the beer, the Bohemia, and the tourism, and that poor bitch
Slovakia kept their wine drinking and the velvet Elvis paintings. Now
Bohemia was suddenly promoted to the King of Beer Drinking simply due
to long division and lazy bullshit numbers.
One thing is true though.
Czech beer drinking is legendary. They first started brewing beer in
Bohemia in 993 at the Břevnov Monastery in Prague. You can still go
there today and drink beer. Fuck yeah. Euro-monks started beer,
perfected beer and made it holy. WBJ beer rules: if a bottle of beer
has a monk or a goat on the label, I drink it in the name of the
father, the son, and the holy goat. Beer brewing during medieval
times was a healthy alternative to getting dysentery from drinking
the Gothic water. That's when children started to drink beer proper.
So maybe the whole per capita thing started then as well.
Drunk as a monk |
Sage Advice From the Godfather of Expat Alcoholics
One year I decided to
leave the brisk Prague winter for the warmer climes of Cyprus. It was
easy math: I wasn't making any money over winter, I was spending all
my time in the Tiki Taky bar pining for the sun while drowning my
sorrows in sunny beach drinks. A friend lived in Cyprus at the time
and invited me to drive around Cyprus in his caravan. I was
immediately worried. The flights were cheap enough, and crashing on
the floor of his van would cost me gas and beer. But Czech beer was
about a buck. Everywhere else in the world it was 5 bucks.
“Wherever you go, learn
to drink the local spirit,” said the drunken expat sage. I later
discovered that in southern Cyprus, Zivania was the cheap local
spirit of choice. Zivania is a cheap brandy distilled from grape
skins or something like that. When faced with five dollar beers, my
friend and I chose to spend that same five bux to buy a bottle of
'Nirvana' as we called it. On brief forays into North Cyprus, the
Turkish Cypriots smiled and shared their raki with me.
The Prague Spirit: Gargle and Swallow
Of course they have local
spirits in Czechia, and it is my duty as your attorney to inform you
that they are all cheap and disgusting. But if you are faced with
sudden twitches from debilitating alcoholism or the fear of gluten in
the beer, you may need to suck it up, buttercup. After you choose to
stay here and your travel money runs out, you are faced with some
very harsh choices:
- Teach English
- Work in a call center
- Pimp your juicy booty out to pay the rent
- Learn to cut your booze budget
I've tried all the above
except the sales of my juicy booty. I'm saving that for marriage.
I've tried all of the local Czech spirits, for medicinal purposes
y'understand. The most popular ones are (in no particular order)
Becherovka, Fernet, Slivovice, and the Mother of All Hooch: Absinthe.
While each spirit varies in its ability to gag you, tie you up and
torture you til you vomit and/or shit your guts out, they're all
cheap enough to fuck your ass up on a budget. The bad news: most of
these spirits taste like either mouthwash or cough syrup. The good
news: if you are the kind of ninja who has rifled through your medicine cabinet at home looking to get an after-hours fix from your
Robitussin or Scope, you would be perfectly at home in Prague.
Becherovka
This is often described as
either herbal, aperitif or digestif. That means they want to sell it
to hippies who drink it both before and after each meal. It is made
in Karlovy Vary, aka Karlsbad, home of a major film festival and a
more major Russian mafia presence. It's the only town in the Czech
Republic where I've seen more Russian newspapers than Czech ones. To
prepare for the Becher experience, imagine throwing a shot of
mouthwash at your throat. Gargle, rinse, repeat. If you are
desperate, swallow that swill.
Aparently, Becher's got a
bunch of herbs n shit, so it's supposed to be a healthier way to get
you blotto. I once knew an American expat who was addicted to
Becherovka. At the end he was seen curled up in a fetal position
clutching an empty Becher bottle, gently rocking back and forth and
staring at the bottle with red eyes. They had to ship him back
Stateside in a basket, but his breath was minty fresh.
Fernet
Shoe polish? |
The choice of the
proletariat. It's normally about a buck a shot, compared to 3-to-5
bucks a shot for anything remotely drinkable. This shit is 40%
alcohol and 100% cheap at a buck a shot. If you're in the average
working class Czech pub (and you should be, what are you, a bistro
bitch?) and you see a Czech man with a beer and a shot, chances are
it's a Fernet. Unless it's his birthday. Then it might be a shot of
Slivovice.
Slivovice
You'll find Slivovice
(plum brandy) in two types: the respectable kind sold in normal Czech
bars with pictures of plums on the label, and the homemade variety,
offered willy-nilly at someone's birthday party. Domaci slivo is most
likely made in the bathtub of an unemployed truck driver. Sure, the
booze may kill all bacteria in the bathtub, but who wants to drink
dodgy chunky style booze unless they are constipated and in dire need
of a super colon blow cure? ExLax ain't got nothing on this shit.
Absinthe
Absinthe makes the heart grow fonder. |
Absinthe is one of those rare liquors that get banned by the Powers That Be. Too many people were getting fucked up on a major hallucinogenic level and too many artists were getting inspiration. While this type of behavior flew in France for la bohème, the Prague commies forbade it in Bohemia. Maybe it was banned due to its association with wormwood, hallucinations and rebellion in general. I can't be certain, but maybe lighting a match under a spoonful of absinthe and a sugar cube was too much like a heroin ritual to be allowed to permeate the general masses with impunity.
--
Gentle reader, I sure hope
my medicinal advice finds you well. As your Wide Body Jet Setter,
your Personal Jesus, and your attorney, I advise you to enjoy life
with a pinch of salt, a shot of the local spirit and a liberal
application of the liquor arts.
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