Monday, December 23, 2019

Weird World Culture: El Caganer


One of the greatest things about being a Wide Body Jetsetter is the wide variety of travel adventures I get to have. Make no mistake; I’m not one of those “adventure travelers” who climb bloody rocks and crap in the woods for fun. By ‘travel adventures’ I mean: I’m the type who slowly meanders on-and-off the beaten byways of Europe, looking for new beer, new junk food, and new kinds of people and cultures. So I can make fun of them.

Not the food and beer, mind you; I have nothing but respect for those things. It’s the various weirdly fucks and their bizarre cultural quirks that give me a smile, a chuckle, and a snicker. Way before I was a Wide Body Jetsetter, back when I was a thin high school geek who had never been on a plane, me and the boys giggled about poop jokes, as pubescent geeks do. And farts. Oh the joy which spreads upon the face of silly boys upon the explosion of a good gutbuster. But imagine my surprise when, as a Wide Man Walking in Barcelona, I came upon HIM.



EL.

EL CAGANER.

And some things cannot be unseen. 


Barthelona


We were wandering through a Christmas Market in Barcelona one cool and sunny day. The fact that it’s cool and sunny in Spain around Christmas is an excellent reason to go to Spain. Or Australia. I think I had consumed my 5th or 6th tall can of Estrella thervetha on a park bench, and I was practicing my Spanish lisp. Imagine my surprise when I found out that Mexicans say ‘cerveza’ and millions of Spaniards (Catalonians, probably; don’t quote me) pronounce it in a very queer way: ‘thervetha.’ And BarTHelona. Etc., etc., ad nausea. Just add nausea. 10 tall cans of thervetha ought to do it.

Then the little woman appeared after shopping and dragged my drunk, lisping ass to yet another shopping experience: the Xmas market. I was totally down for that. It was either get moving or fall asleep on the park bench. After my ridiculous language lesson (self-imposed), I was totally ready for some chestnuts roasting on the open fire.

EL CAGANER


What I was definitely not ready for was EL CAGANER. El Caganer is like El Mariachi, only uglier and smellier. El Caganer likes to hide and wait for unsuspecting tourists to waddle by, then he drops his pants to let slip the dogs of poo. No one is safe; men, women, and children suffer his deadly doodie. Well, the kids mostly chuckle.

I didn’t find any chestnuts roasting on an open fire, and Jack Frost was nowhere to be seen. But there were nativity scenes aplenty, all over the market square. They had full villages in miniature, full of peasant figurines, donkey figurines, and manger figurines. The little ceramic figures were straight from El Biblio: the 3 wise hombres, a manger, Mary, and the little bambino Hey-Zeus.



And just around the corner, I saw the little figurine which can’t be unseen: El Caganer was squatting behind the manager, dropping trou and poo—within pissing distance of Baby Jesus! WTF? There he was, about as out of place as an asshole on the elbow, porcelain butt out, delivering a prodigious poo.

It was the transgressive thrill of having the strict dogma of religion sullied by this blasphemous image of a crapping figure of a Spanish peasant, no doubt some sort of heathen/pagan. It was that non sequitur moment where the holy meets the obscene, like that Piss Christ art by Andres Serrano.

But it was also the graphic nature of the porcelain poo. It wasn’t all cute like a poop emoji with a smile, deposited under the buttocks of the blasphemer. Nossirree Bob. It was hanging, all-squidgy-like, caught in flagrante, as it were.

But Wait! There’s More!


What could deliver such a visceral attraction/repulsion than El Caganer? A whole army of Los Caganers, in a Spanish market square, lined up like ducks in a row at a county fair. Naturally, you can buy your own trinkets at a Christmas market, and all the figurines needed to make your own home Nativity scene. You can buy wise men of every color, size, and stripe, with many variations of Mary and Baby Jesus.

But you already knew the most popular figurine in the Spanish Nativity: El Caganer. That’s right, folks, people lined up in droves to buy the shitty little figurines, and peddlers were turning a brisk trade. You could buy the ‘original’ Catalonian Caganer, dressed in red and white peasant clothes, or any matter of other Caganer you can imagine. This shitty little bastard takes many forms, including celebrity Caganers, Politician Caganers, young Caganers, old Caganers, black ones, brown ones, and red ones (skin and poo).

This was starting to look like a fecal fetish. Wait. Were we in Germany? No scheisse videos to be seen anywhere, but we did see an Angela Merkel figurine doing some scheissemachen. Even Obama brought his Presidential black booty to the lineup of famous politician Caganers. And he was smiling something fierce.

The Tao of Poo


El Caganer isn't just an irreverent little shit copping a squat behind the holiest of holy scenes in Christendom. Nossiree, Bob. There's a reason for his squeezin. That's right, there's an entire philosophy behind the buttockal blasphemy. But of course there is.

While the Brits devote entire libraries of literature and comedy series devoted to bum jokes and poo humor, we Puritanical Americans bury the basic crudity of rude bodily function under mountains, heaps, and piles (as it were) of euphemism. As if living in constant fear of biblical plagues (as puritans do), some are so afraid of saying 'bowel movement' that they say 'b.m.' as a euphemism for the clinical term. Talk about some tight-ass motherfuckers.



Fortunately for America, our only saving grace is the cousin of El Caganer, Mr. Hanky. Otherwise, we would be lost.

Rather than hiding the poo or burying it under dunghills of euphemism, the Spaniards embrace the Tao of Poo, understanding that the complete biological process of eat/drink/pray/love/shit is also a religious experience. To wit:

Menja bé, caga fort i no tinguis por a la mort!
Eat well, shit heartily, and don't be afraid of death!

And those saucy Spaniards would say this before a meal. Gotta lovem, those tapa-munchin' munchkins.

They would also wish us a Feliz navidad! And my wide ass would also like to wish you happy holidays, whatever form they may take for you. And howdy ho!